NZeta Ignition timing – NZeta Scooters https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/feed/ Mon, 09 Sep 2024 18:11:08 +0000 https://bbpress.org/?v=2.6.11 en-US https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1101 <![CDATA[NZeta Ignition timing]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1101 Sat, 13 Sep 2014 02:00:44 +0000 southernscoot NZeta ignition timing.

The user manuals for both the 501 and 502 show the same settings for setting the points as below and this is available as a PDF download in the members download section:

nzeta timing

 

nzeta timing 2

Can someone confirm this is correct or has anything to add?

]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1105 <![CDATA[Reply To: NZeta Ignition timing]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1105 Sat, 13 Sep 2014 07:30:10 +0000 nzeta_mike Thanks Jim,

From the stuff i read the points should be just coming apart when the piston is 3.4mm before tdc. I think i’ll be making a mark on the dynostarter when i’ve got the head off to measure it. What a hassle!

]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1106 <![CDATA[Reply To: NZeta Ignition timing]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1106 Sun, 14 Sep 2014 22:32:04 +0000 Jim Hey Mike,

Yes to be fair its not really clear on that unless you have one of the factory points tools. I guess once you have the mark on the dynostarter then you will be all good. I must have a look at the marks on my one.

Lets know how you get on in case someone else needs the info.

So how do you start your nzetasaur?

With your dynostarter of course…..must be beer oclock…..

]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1107 <![CDATA[Reply To: NZeta Ignition timing]]> https://www.nzeta.com/forums/topic/nzeta-ignition-timing/#post-1107 Mon, 15 Sep 2014 23:51:21 +0000 Blair Yep you guys are right.  Directions as per what Mike said.

I just whip the head off, engine in situ.  Wind her over by hand until you are 3 to 4 mm (without being precise at 3.4mm) before TDC, and move the points plate round to suit the points just starting to open.   (You could use a dial gauge on the piston/engine to get the 3.4mm before TDC precisely of course).

I used an old zig zag roll your own fag paper between the points and moved the points plate til the paper released as the points opened… that helped a bit and got it as accurate as I could.

Then set your points gap at TDC… all done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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