NZeta History › Forums › Help ! › dynastart rotor removal
- This topic has 11 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 5 months ago by Jim.
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May 18, 2014 at 2:36 pm #974 | |
oldmgs Member
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I need to remove the dynastart rotor. Manual says use puller S-49, which I don’t have or a long 10mm bolt and hold the rotor while turning – I assume this is meant to break the taper grip by turning the crank shaft while imobilising the rotor. I can hold the rotor pretty good with a rubber clamp grip I have, but not managed to get it off. Don’t want to damage anyting so though I would ask if anyone knows what a S-49 puller looks like and how it works. The legs on the puller I have are a bit short to go under the rotor – and also worried about damaging it. Any advice? Cheers Douglas |
May 19, 2014 at 9:34 am #975 | |
Blair Member
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HI You can definitely do it with a 10mm bolt, I have never used a puller. I tapered the end of the 10mm bolt (on the grinder) and then wound it in til the rotor popped off. The bolt pushes on the end of the crank, so the bolt is wound into the rotor. It was tight and I thought it wasn’t going to let go, then all of a sudden, bang, and all came undone nicely. Have done this 5 or 6 times more now, works well. Have a look up the rotor hole to be sure of what is up there before you wind the bolt up. Good luck 🙂 |
May 20, 2014 at 10:44 am #976 | |
oldmgs Member
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Right, thanks. Got it off. Was just about at the end of my strength and moved up to my longest breaker bar by the time it came free. I’ve been investigating the possibility of installing a Powerdynamo electronic system as fitted to the JAWA 353 (and my Bantam), but it looks like the CEZETA motor is just too different – much bigger taper. And securing the stator would be a big challenge I think. |
May 22, 2014 at 6:27 pm #977 | |
Blair Member
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Good work, I thought something was going to break when I did it first time, really had some torque on the breaker bar too 🙂 There is a couple of things you can do to modernize and improve the electrical system, especially the ignition system. You could fit a vape system, check this out if you don’t know about them. http://www.vape.cz/en/info-o-firme/ You would lose the ability to dyna start the scoot though, so not great. They are expensive too, so the solution may be with keeping the rotor and dynastart original, and swapping out a perhaps unreliable mechanical regulator, (especially at the age they are now) with an electronic regulator for sale in Czech, made for Cezetas/Nzetas. http://www.jawamarkt.cz/en/cz-501-502-scooter/regulator-12v-100w-cz-scooter That is my plan anyway, upgrade a little and at not too much cost and see how it goes. Will be starting a resto my 502 in the next 6 months so maybe can post up some mods I have in mind, nothing radical, just to get better performance and reliability. Will see if they work first though 🙂 |
May 23, 2014 at 10:48 am #978 | |
oldmgs Member
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Thanks, very useful – I was not aware of VAPE. I have two engines and two dynastarts so hopefully one will work – but a while away from trying. Solid state rectifier sounds like a good idea. Have you dealt with Jawamarket? I want to buy some parts but first wanted to check that the shocks they sell for the 502 will fit the 501 and if they will sell one. I have sent them an email and used the web contact page but no reply as yet – and over 2 weeks. I will try again and translate with google translate see if that helps. Do you know if the 502 and 501 shocks are the same? |
May 28, 2014 at 8:28 pm #979 | |
Blair Member
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Have had dealings with Jawmarkt, things started out well, contact was good, but answers to any questions stopped and even after writing 3 or 4 more times over a couple of months, using both English and Czech translator website, got not one response. I gave up and used Motoren. They were great, professional and fast. The shocks are different from 501 to 502, have different part numbers. You want a: 501 41 100. It is just a damper, it has no spring, the 502 is spring and damper in one. You’d think there must be something similar from Jawa, CZ or other bike that could be used. The damper really did look like just the damper part of what was perhaps a shock with spring as well. |
June 18, 2014 at 5:16 pm #997 | |
Jim Keymaster
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Some of this info is great stuff, I’m undecided on the vape system but the new rectifier definitely looks the go. Hopefully someone will let us all know if they change it. |
June 18, 2014 at 8:32 pm #998 | |
Blair Member
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Funnily enough have placed an order with Motoren today and paid by bank transfer. Have ordered the AEV regulator/rectifier, from the link some posts back, so hopefully can tell you how it works in a few weeks 🙂 By the way Motoren were great, fast and have good English… only too happy to help. I rate them. Have a few bits coming I can’t remake, like most rubber bits, indicator sets and one or two other bits. Fortunately went to Czech republic last year whilst in Europe and met with the chap who owns Cezeta s.r.o, (from this link below) He is a very good guy, took me to his workshop and I bought some parts and saw his range of doer uppers and the new electric engined Cezeta. Very inspiring and great to see so many Cezetas of differing models side by side, including a 3 wheeler. Overall he wants to get steady business going with Cezeta, he is the sole owner and has some great ideas for the future. Only thing I wanted was lower prices of his parts 😉 He’s got lots of parts, second hand too if your not finding brand new. |
June 19, 2014 at 11:36 am #1000 | |
oldmgs Member
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I also ordered some parts from Motoren this week, and I concur – very professional. I did try Jawamarket because PayPal is the cheaper payment option, but he played me with a dead bat. International transfer cost $18 at this end and another $31 at the other end, so not cheap – costs seem to be the same regardless of the amount transferred, so could be worth “pre-loading” some credit if a lot of purchases are planned. I have also been taking to the guy at Cezeta.com (name of Neil – does not sound very Czech – is he British?). I am buying some trim, a kick start and other second-hand bits – he is very helpful as you say.
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June 19, 2014 at 8:33 pm #1001 | |
Blair Member
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Nice one regarding the transfer costs. Gotta say I get a little peeved every time I do an international bank transfer (not often). My bank charges $25 and probably wins on exchange rate too, and then cannot tell you and will not find out what the bank charge is at the other end. So the first time I bought from Motoren, not all the money arrived so had to make another transaction, and that time sent extra, which did not get taxed by bank there. Hmm, one of those things I guess. Do you have another way or ideas to make these payments cheaper when the merchant does not take credit card oldmsgs? Yep Neil is British, Manchester if I remember rightly. Nice bloke huh, clever buggar to boot, I got the sprocket chain guard pieces and some other second hand parts… bloody hard to come across some of em, and he had heaps, many of almost everything. Hes good to deal with and a great contact to have. |
June 20, 2014 at 8:34 am #1002 | |
oldmgs Member
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I am with ANZ. A while back they introduced an online international transfer service via personal online banking. You fill in an on line form with all the details (and you can save it for future transactions), you choose whether you or the receiver pays the receiving charges and it tells you what these are before you commit. To finalize the transaction you are sent a code by txt and it goes through almost immediately. The charge at this end is $18 as opposed to $25 if you do it at the bank. Other banks may also offer this service. The other option is to post a bank cheque, I think $2o at our end and no charge at the other. PayPal is a better deal for smaller amounts. Cheers Douglas |
April 3, 2016 at 2:18 pm #1320 | |
Jim Keymaster
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Just on that paypal/money transfer thing, I have been using jawashop.com and found them good. Not the same selection as motoren but if you ask him he will get what you need and a good price. Obviously just watch the freight and customs charges at this end…. |
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