Reversing the poliarity

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May 29, 2016 at 2:46 pm #1363

oldmgs
Member

Hi Nzeta people

I have fitted  a solid state controller made by AEV. It requires that the dynostarter be changed to  negative earth from the original positive earth. To remove any residual charge I need to flash the dynamo. However, the instruction are in Czech and the translation I have made with Google is somewhat unclear. As far as I can tell you remove all the leads and connect a battery to one or two of the terminals for 3 seconds – but both the D and M terminal are mentioned and I am not sure exactly what to do. Can anyone enlighten me?

Cheers

Douglas

May 31, 2016 at 11:21 am #1364

Jim
Keymaster

Hello Douglas

Have you had a look here http://www.skutrklub.cz/ They mention the AEV controller in a few posts.

You will need to use google translate for each page – not the best I know.

 

cheers,

 

Jim

June 1, 2016 at 7:38 pm #1368

Blair
Member

Hi chaps

Have done this, and it was a little less technical than I thought.

In the end of after some consideration, just swapped the battery terminals over and plugged her all in as usual.  No joke, it was totally fine, it does not make the engine run backwards or try to start it backwards, if you swap the negative to positive etc…

Second scoot round, (first with AEV) I nearly had it all wired up with positive Earth, when I realised the AEV is neg earth, so swapped it around and it went like normal.

Give it a go, she’ll be right with positive to the AEV 😉

June 8, 2016 at 3:43 pm #1369

oldmgs
Member

Right oh. In the end I made a better translation:

“<span id=”yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1465355225397_5441″ lang=”EN-NZ”>By default, the factory have our Čezeta ground (+) pole. The electronic controller needs for its activities unconditionally ground (-) terminal, as it is now common for motor vehicles. I disconnected the torch and all contacts dynamo. On the pole M dynamo flashlight I had brought from (-) terminal. (+) Terminal twice for 2-3 seconds joined the dynamo terminal D. Thus, the residual magnetic field of the stator and turned dynamo it will deliver a voltage of opposite polarity compared to the original.”</span>

So I did that, connected up the battery for the first time and to my amazement everything worked  – ignition,  lights, indicators, starter motor and even the speedo light. Then I mounted the switch and the fuse blew. Did this  a few times before I figured out my nice new switch had a short to the metal body. Was fine just hanging loose – but would short when mounted. The guy in Australia I bought it from will try and repair it.

On another topic – what oil is recommended. I understand that some modern oils with additives are not good with wet clutches?
<div id=”yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1465355225397_5447″ class=”yiv4176300702MsoNormal”><span lang=”EN-NZ”>  </span></div>

June 13, 2016 at 11:47 am #1373

Jim
Keymaster

Hey Douglas,

I’m using Motul transoil 10/30 gearbox oil in all my vespas, all wet clutch and some are vintage. I think with the synthetic oils they wont hurt the cork plates but the clutch can slip if the plates etc aren’t in good condition. While a good indicator that the oil is actually doing its job, sometimes people incorrectly think its the oils fault.

cheers,

Jim

June 15, 2016 at 11:02 pm #1375

Blair
Member

Nice work Doug! with the translation and the job.

Frustrating blowing the fuse I bet, perhaps had you thinking it was all going tits up, when so close to success… bloody old scoots and their quirks.

Good one for the gearbox oil / clutch info Jim.

You using (or planning to) use the same brand etc on the zeta?  Clutch work well if so?

I have a new clutch and what I think is slack old springs, so is close to slipping it feels like… have new springs, so going to try those, and now a different brand of oil perhaps too.

Cheers guys

Blair

June 16, 2016 at 8:28 am #1376

oldmgs
Member

Yes, I have bought a litre of the transoil from

<span style=”color: #0000ff; font-family: Times New Roman;”>http://motozone.nz/</span&gt;<span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;”> </span>

was $29 delivered. I have new clutch plates and springs so hopefully be OK. Probably be towards the end of the year before I start it. Going away for a month then work will get in the way. Trip includes a visit to Prague to pick up the muffler, a front rack and a trailer hitch/spare wheel carrier and hopefully a test ride on the Cezeta 506 electric. The trailer is a long term “aspirational goal”.

Cheers

Douglas

June 16, 2016 at 2:09 pm #1377

Jim
Keymaster

I’m liking the “aspirational goal” Douglas.

You dont see many PAV trailers come up for sale so you may have to bring a new one back with you from Prague.

Blair, I will stick with the same oil for now as its not like the gearboxes in the nzeta or vespas are high performance…. An older scooter mechanic friend suggested 30 grade oil but I have no idea what that is.

One of my 501 motors, I haven’t had running yet, doesn’t have a “new” clutch in it so it won’t take long to see if that oil will be OK or not.

cheers,

Jim.

June 16, 2016 at 2:49 pm #1378

oldmgs
Member

I actually bought the Motul transoil 10/30 you suggested – for some reason the link I put in did not copy correctly. On tradme they only seem to have the four liter packs, but I got one litre from Motozone. Yes if I ever get a trailer it will be a new one I think. They seem to be fiberglass so a bit cheaper to freight.

October 24, 2016 at 5:37 pm #1435

Jim
Keymaster

I’ve just done the same with my 502. Fitted AEV and flashed as described. All good. My Sparkie mate told me later that flashing isn’t necessary as once started, it will reverse the residual magnetism itself! Makes it easy.

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